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Franck Muller Launches Cintrée Curvex Master Banker Asia Exclusive

OG triple time zone.

A pioneer in independent watchmaking, Franck Muller was known for its elegant tonneau-shaped cases, but the brand was also particularly prolific with complications in the 1990s and early 2000s. Among the most famous inventions are the double-sided chronograph and the whimsical Crazy Hours.

But the brand's technical creativity is also at the other end of the practical spectrum – an example is the Master Banker, a watch launched in 1993 with three separate time zones, each with its own hours and minutes.

Now, the watch has gained new life as a Cintrée Curvex Master Banker Asia Exclusive, and it comes in two case sizes, seven different colors and a variety of case materials, including stainless steel, rose gold and rose gold with diamonds.

Despite being powered by the humble ETA base movement, the Master Banker is a surprising complication, yet cleverly constructed, simple and sturdy.

The time zone complication can be used to track the time in multiple countries, but is rarely immediately clear, especially when multiple time zones are displayed. With two larger sub-dials - each with its own hour and minute hands - the Master Banker solves the problem right away.

Not only is it legible, each of its sub-dials can be set to time zones with unconventional offsets — such as 45 minutes in Kathmandu — allowing the watch to track any time zone in the world. The only downside to the display is the lack of a day and night indicator for the time zone.

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Practicality aside, this watch is beautifully designed. The visual appeal of Franck Muller's looks is often forgotten as its new designs are outdated, but the brand's older styles often have a classic feel. Here, the sub-dials are made more modern using bright colors that contrast with the black dial.

The characteristic of both watches - 8880 or 7880 size - is that the case may be a little too big. They're still great to wear because of the shape, but lose some of the elegance of the smaller sizes.

technical and aesthetic genius
Now the brand's signature case, the Cintree Curvex case is actually a successful reinterpretation of the tonneau-shaped watch of the 1930s – especially the Cartier casks since their restoration early in Mr. Muller's career. The case is curved in three axes, creating a unique shape that is both fluid and ergonomic - but has yet to be successfully replicated by competitors.

Inside is the ETA-based movement - which relies on a very simple and ingenious structure - with the gears for the second and third time zones meshing with the gear train for the local or primary time. Thus, the crown can adjust all time zones simultaneously, or each sub-dial individually, without the need for buttons or pins.

Franck Muller Cintrée Curvex Master Banker Asia Exclusive
Ref. 8880 MB SCDT (oversized)
refer to. 7880 MB SCDT (large)

Case Diameter: Reference. 8880 – 55.4mm x 39.6mm; ref. 7880 – 50.4mm x 36mm
Case height: ref. 8880 – 11.8 mm; ref. 7880 – 11.6 mm
Material: Steel, Black Steel or 18k Rose Gold
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Carl. MVD 2800-MBSC
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds and date; 2nd and 3rd time zone display
Frequency: 28,800 beats/hour (4 Hz)
Chain: self-winding
Power reserve: 42 hours

Strap: genuine leather strap